How to Create a Fishtail Hem on the Darling Ranges Dress

I am absolutely in love with this dress! It’s my current favorite because it pairs with everything, suits all weather conditions in Perth, and feels incredibly glamorous.
As soon as fishtail hems (also known as low/hi hems or mullet hems) became popular, I knew the Darling Ranges dress would look amazing with one. Now that I’ve made the alteration, I couldn’t be happier!

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Would you like to make one too? It’s a simple adjustment to the Darling Ranges pattern. Follow the steps below to create your own fishtail hem dress.

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First, take your measurements. Decide on the desired length for the front and back of the dress. For example, I wanted the front skirt hem to be 18 inches from the center front and the back skirt hem to be 30 inches from the center back.

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Add seam allowances. Since the fishtail hem has a significant curve, use a narrow hem of 1/2 inch. For the front skirt, add 1/2 inch to 18 inches plus a 5/8-inch seam allowance at the waistline. For the back skirt, add 1/2 inch to 30 inches plus a 5/8-inch seam allowance at the waistline.

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This means the front skirt pattern piece should measure 19 1/4 inches from the center front to the hem, and the back skirt pattern piece should measure 31 1/4 inches from the center back to the hem.

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Now, start manipulating your pattern pieces. Tape the skirt back and front pieces together temporarily at the side seam, turning the back piece over.

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Add pattern paper to the skirt back piece and tape it in place. Mark your new hemline—for instance, 31 1/4 inches from the center back waist to the hem on the fold side.

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On the skirt front, measure and mark 19 1/4 inches from the center front to the hem on the button placket side.

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Draw a smooth S-curve connecting these two points using a curved tool or freehand. Ensure the curve is even and smooth to define the new hemline, which will be shorter in the front and longer in the back.

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Once satisfied with the curved hem, cut the pattern piece. Carefully remove the tape holding the front and back skirt pieces together. The front piece is now complete, and the back piece should resemble the description above.

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To add fullness and flare to the skirt back, use the slash and spread method. This maintains the skirt’s proportions. Decide how much fullness to add; for example, I made three slashes and spread each by 1 inch, increasing the total fullness by 6 inches (since the skirt is cut on the fold).

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To alter the back skirt pattern, divide the waist measurement by four and draw three perpendicular slash lines from the waist to the hem.

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Cut along these three lines from the hemline to the waist, but do not cut completely off at the waist.

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Spread the hemline of the skirt 1” at each of the three slashes and add pattern paper, then tape in place.

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After slashing and spreading the pattern, ensure the hemline forms a smooth curve.

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Your skirt pieces are now altered.

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Cut the modified back skirt piece on the fold, and cut two of the front skirt piece.

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Follow the Darling Ranges sew along to attach pockets to the skirt, complete the skirt, and attach it to the bodice.

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Check that the hem is even at the side seams, and use scissors to even them out if necessary.

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Since the skirt hemline is now curved, sew a narrow hem to finish the dress hem neatly.

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Sew ¼” away from the unfinished skirt hem.

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Press the hem upwards toward the wrong side at this stitch line.

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Press the hem up once more to enclose the raw edge, and sew ¼” away from the folded edge of the hem.

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Press and admire your handy work!

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Enjoy your new Fishtail Darling Ranges Dress!

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LOOKING FOR MORE TUTORIALS?

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Here’s the full list of Darling Ranges tutorials:

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Project preparation

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Pattern alterations: full bust adjustment

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Pattern alterations: small bust adjustment

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Pattern alterations: lengthen the bodice

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Pattern alterations: raise the neckline

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Pattern alterations: rounded neckline

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Pattern alterations: fishtail hem

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Pattern alterations: add darts to the back bodice pattern piece

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Sewing & construction: Bodice & darts

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Sewing & construction: Skirt & pockets

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Sewing & construction: Attaching the skirt & bodice

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Sewing & construction: Placket & Neckline

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Sewing & construction: Sleeveless version

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Sewing & construction: Attaching the sleeves

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Sewing & construction: Hemming

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Sewing & construction: Ties & beltloops

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Sewing & construction: Closures

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Sewing and Construction: Sleeveless variation

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Sewing and Construction: Dartless Versions (B & C)

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We absolutely love seeing what you make, so don’t forget to tag your creations with #MNdarlingranges and @megannielsenpatterns if sharing on social media.

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Don’t have the pattern yet?

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Order Darling Ranges 0-20 or Darling Ranges Curve today!

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