Today we’re going to attach the sleeves and finish the sleeve hems for the Darling Ranges dress using the inset sleeve method. I’ll show you two different ways to insert elastic into the sleeve hems for View A. Adding elastic to the sleeve hems provides great comfort and avoids the constricting feeling of elbow sleeves with vents.
Ready to start? Let’s go! First, fold the sleeves in half with right sides together, aligning the sleeve seams. Pin and sew, then neaten the raw edges. Press the sleeve seams open or to the side. Sew basting stitches along the sleeve cap between the guide dots on your pattern, using the longest stitch on your machine. Leave long thread tails and do not backstitch. Gently pull the threads to slightly gather the fabric on the sleeve cap—just enough to ease the sleeve into the armscye without visible gathers. With the dress wrong side out, place the sleeve inside the dress with right sides facing out. Match the bodice side seam to the sleeve seam and pin. Begin pinning the sleeve to the armscye from the seam up to the basting on each side, easing the sleeve in as needed. Pin the sleeve cap, sew, and finish the raw edges. Iron the sleeve seam join (a tailor’s ham works well), and your inset sleeve is complete! Now for the hemming! I’ll cover the finishing for View A with two methods. For View B and View C hemming, refer to the provided link. HEM ELASTIC: METHOD 1 This method is from the pattern booklet. Finish the sleeve’s raw edges, fold up 3/4″, and press. Sew 1/2″ from the folded edge, leaving a 1-2″ gap for elastic. Cut elastic to the length specified in the pattern. Attach a safety pin to one end and thread it through the casing. Join the elastic ends and close the casing. HEM ELASTIC: METHOD 2 I often use this method to prevent twisting, especially in kids’ clothing for comfortable waistbands. It’s super easy! Finish the sleeve’s raw edges. Cut elastic to length and join the ends with a zig-zag stitch. Mark the elastic and sleeve hem in halves with pins. Pin the elastic to the sleeve hem 1/2″ from the edge, matching the marked points.You’ll notice that the elastic is smaller than the hem. Now sew the elastic to the sleeve hem using a zig-zag stitch and stretch the elastic as you go so that the elastic matches up with the fabric. You’ll notice that the fabric gathers up perfectly evenly.
Fold the fabric over at the elastic so that you now encase the elastic. Sew 1/2″ from the folded edge, stretching the elastic as you go so that the two pieces of fabric you are sewing match up. Taaadaaaa you’re done!! LOOKING FOR MORE TUTORIALS? Here’s the full list of Darling Ranges tutorials: Project preparation Pattern alterations: full bust adjustment Pattern alterations: small bust adjustment Pattern alterations: lengthen the bodice Pattern alterations: raise the neckline Pattern alterations: rounded neckline Pattern alterations: fishtail hem Pattern alterations: add darts to the back bodice pattern piece Sewing & construction: Bodice & darts Sewing & construction: Skirt & pockets Sewing & construction: Attaching the skirt & bodice Sewing & construction: Placket & Neckline Sewing & construction: Sleeveless version Sewing & construction: Attaching the sleeves Sewing & construction: Hemming Sewing & construction: Ties & beltloops Sewing & construction: Closures Sewing and Construction: Sleeveless variation Sewing and Construction: Dartless Versions (View B &View C) We absolutely love seeing what you make, so don’t forget to tag your creations with #MNdarlingranges and @megannielsenpatterns if sharing on social media. Don’t have the pattern yet? Order Darling Ranges 0-20 or Darling Ranges Curve today! Darling Ranges MN2001 Darling Ranges Sewalong